Crags

Kampot/Kompong Trach



・Overview
This is a huge area of limestone crags in the Southern part of Cambodia. It has a great potential to become a famous sports climbing area representing Cambodia in the future. We have only a limited number of routes here, yet. You can easily access Cloister Wall (overhang wall of 20 meter in height) and Lotus Tower (4 tiers of overhang walls) from the roadway, but many local people gather here to watch you. Cows and goats come by and make noise. Around Shark's Fin, you see workers from cement company crushing rocks. When they use dynamite, you need to evacuate. Fish Bowl, Ryan's Pinnacle, and Cave Area have several routes each (all were developed bottom-up). Each rock has its own distinct character. Most of the lines only have the top anchor bolts, and no bolts are available for runners. Cams and cam placement techniques are mandatory here. Only experienced climbers should climb here. Kampot town, which will be the base for climbing, is a resort that thrived during the French colonial era. It is much more quiet than Sihanoukville、but the rapid economic growth after the civil war has an impact on this town. It has a sign of reviving as a resort.

・Location
Kompong Trach, Kampot province

・Access
You can make a day trip from Phnom Penh. Take the #3 Route toward South for 135 km (3 hours by omni-taxi, US$7.00). Or take a local bus to Kampot and get off at Kompong Trach (fee is US$5.00). Normally Kampot or Cape Kep which has nice looking bungalows will be the base for climbing. From Kampot, it is one hour drive to the east to get to Kompong Trach. It is a small village, but very lively. There are guest houses, too. To go to the rock site, take the dirt road from the market along the main street to the Kompong Trach Temple (there is a signboard). You will have to pay the admission fee US$1.00 at the entrance to the temple. Cloister Wall is just around the corner, and if you go further down, you will see Lotus Tower on your left. Shark's Fin is a 15 minutes walk from the temple.

・Gear
The rope should be 60m long. Take 15 quickdraws. If you plan to climb traditional routes which are not covered in this book, 2 sets of cams will be necessary and #4 or bigger size cam would be nice-to-have. Also take a lot of slings.

・Rock Description
Limestone. A pitch is longer than 25 meters. There are some multi-pitch routes. Set cams in irregular cracks and eroded pockets for your protection. Vertical to slight overhang to super-overhang.

・Summary of the routes
Although not many lines have the top anchor bolts, if there are bolts in situ, they are stainless steel and firmly set. Route grades are not high (5.10 level), but the content is rich. If you are seeking for the first ascent, descent from the rock could be a problem. Good ledges exist, but bushes are not reliable. You will feel secure if you bring a drilling kit with you. It depends on your climbing ability, but most people will need two sets of cams. Some large size cams (#4 or bigger) would make you cope with a wide crack.

・Bathrooms
None

・Food
You can buy snacks in Kampot or Kompong Trach.

・Perking
Free of charge

・Threat
Sunlight, snakes, duds, cement company, rarely burglars

・Accommodations
There are two guest houses in Kampot owned by Westerners. Single rooms are from US$10.00. Meals are available. There is a guest house in the Kep beach, but the cost is a little higher, from US$25.00. Camping out at the crags are not recommended. It is a vast terrain without houses. Several Westerners were killed by the remaining radicals of Khmer Rouge in 2005.

・Topo
アメリカ人クライマーBenjamin TiptonがカンボジアのMonument Books社からトポを出版している。
 → Rock Climbing in Cambodia (販売はカンボジア国内のみ)


Climbing Route Guide Book




Debut!! 『Angkor Climbers』1st Edition
Cambodia Climbing Route Guide Book
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・Others
Bokoh mountain, which is 1,000 meters above the sea level, is a good sightseeing spot. It is cool up there, and the view is magnificent. There was a casino on the top during the French colonial era, but it lies in ruins now. It is a ruin in a broad sense of word, but it has nothing to do with Angkor. Many tourists stop by here. Roadway built for the casino is not well kept, but it reaches the top of the mountain. There are 4WD pick-up tours for US$30. Comfortable, but you might fall off if you are off guard. Also, there is a beach (Kep beach)between the crag and Kampot.




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